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Meet at Ark Preschool in Rockwall, TX at 9:00am. Ride starts at 9:30am sharp.

Directions:
From Dallas take I-30 East, take exit 68 and go left on Goliad St. Take a right on Yellow Jacket Lane. School is on the corner of Yellow Jacket andTownsend Dr. Consult Google map for more elaborate directions.

Route:
Similar to the Hot Rocks Rally route.
http://www.rockwallrotary.org/IMUpload/HotRockMap-2010%20w%20logo.pdf

For those that want to download map to their Garmins, routes are available on mapmyride.com

Sunday January 30th, 2011:

Meet in Downtown Cedar Hill, TX. Plenty of parking around City Hall and Babe’s Chicken House @ the intersection of Main and Cedar St. Take Hwy 67 from Downtown Dallas to Cedar Hill and take Belt Line Road exit. Use Google maps for directions.

Unfortunately White Rhino Coffee shop is not open on Sundays.

Ride starts at 9:30 am.

40 mile short ride route can be found at:
http://www.mapmyride.com/routes/view/27377506

Both long and short route will head from Cedar Hill to Waxahachie from where the short route will head back to Cedar Hill whereas the long route will continue on towards Maypearl, Mountaintop and back to Cedar Hill.

Park Place Cycling Team.

CHANGES!!! Please look at the course map and racers will be entering in Gate 5. GATE 5. Gate 5 there will be volunteers pointing you.

The course Map is close, but not exact. There are no bad pinch points, and plenty of room to pass. The map makes it look tighter than it is. I did a few laps at around 25 avg. Everything felt great!

Please! pick up after yourself, do not throw gel wrappers, bottles or anything down. Even while racing.
Also, the $10 gate fee is waved for cyclist and cycling spectators. GATE 5.

PRIMES: The Pizza Lounge. Which is basically on the course Parry Ave/ Exposition will be giving out tons of primes for their taste food! After race Saturday get together!

Click Here for Race Flyer

Cycling is gloriously simple – that’s why five years olds can learn to ride a bike. But cycling is also fabulously complicated. There are hundreds of minor details, from the right clothing and body position to the proper tire pressure and seat height, that can make your ride smoother, safer, more comfortable, less painful and, best of all, more fun. The trouble is that most just beyond basic knowledge is either passed down in whispered advice from experienced cyclists, or is left to be learned in the school of hard knocks. Here are solutions to six all too common blunders. Pass them on to your favorite newbie rider, or consider them your secret handshake – and a welcome to the club

1. OOPS: You have a panty line AHA! Bike shorts should come with a flashing tag that says, ” Do not wear underpants.” The extra layer of fabric can cause chafing and irritation, and also trap enough moisture to fuel a bacterial wildfire. Do yourself a favor and go commando. Bike shorts are designed to be in direct contact with your skin, and the wicking fabrics pull away excess moisture to keep things cozy. Similar no-nos: cotton T-shirts (no wicking, no pockets, no zippers, no good) and white athletics socks (no wicking, can cause blisters)

2. OOPS: Your seat looks awfully low AHA! On most bikes, you can’t stay in the saddle and have your feet flat on the ground. (There are some notable exceptions – Electra cruisers, recumbents, etc. – but only because their long, slack geometries allow proper leg extensions from a low slung saddle.) Sure, it’s possible to lower your seat so your perch feels less precarious, but it’s a slippery slope. With a lower position, you don’t get enough leg extension, which can lead to knee injuries and quad cramps. Correct saddle height allows for proper leg extension with a slight bend in the knee at the bottom of the pedal stroke.

3. OOPS: Your helmet straps are dangling AHA! Next time you strap on your helmet, do this test: Grab your lid with both hands, and try to move it back and forth on your noggin. Don’t be gentle. If the helmet moves more than an inch in any direction, tighten the straps. Why? A helmet protects your head only if it stays put during a crash. A loose fitting helmet can lead to injury if it’s pushed over your face when you hit the ground or if it bounces down and covers your eyes on a technical descent.

4. OOPS: You haven’t moved your upper body since the ride began AHA! Obvious tension is the hallmark of a beginner. Every cyclist fears scary terrain now and again, but experienced bikers know that riding with locked elbows and a white knuckle grip on the bar transforms your body into a block of wood, and blocks of wood cannot use body English the subtle shifts, leans and hitches that keep you in control when things get hairy. Stay loose and avoid a stiff back by varying hand position, wiggling your fingers, taking deep breaths and relaxing your shoulders.

5. OOPS: You continue to lock up your rear wheel when braking AHA! The problem here isn’t with the back wheel. The front brake is the issue. Or, rather, a fear of it. The majority of your stopping power comes from the front brake – just shift your weight back when you give the front lever a squeeze. Remember: You scrub speed with your rear brake, but you stop with your front.

6. OOPS: You’re getting frustrated, and it’s holding you back AHA! Trying something new takes guts. Bad days happen to everybody. You won’t always stay with the group on the climbs, or clear every obstacle on the trail. And that’s okay – as long as you don’t complain and give up. Instead, congratulate your riding buddy on a climb well done, or for the spectacular move the new fallen tree. Ask for advice, then vow to try again next time. Maybe you’ll make it, and maybe you won’t. The fun is in the attempt.

TRAIN ON THE EDGE. On long endurance training rides, aim for 50 percent of your effort being easy and 50 percent being at the upper end of your aerobic zone – just hard enough that you need to concentrate to keep from drifting back into easy, says Applegate. “This drill will help you stay fast on the flats.”

PEDAL NONSTOP. When training on undulating terrain, avoid coasting on slight declines. “Keeping the pedals turning will train your legs to match the effort needed to cruise on flat roads,” he says.

SWITCH GEARS. When on a long, flat stretch, periodically click up and then down a gear. The variation in cadence will keep your legs feeling fresher.

CHANGE POSITION. Keep your supporting muscles from getting sore by shifting your weight, riding the hoods and the drops or by standing up and stretching.

WORK THE WIND. Head wind is your enemy. Resist the temptation to shift into a big gear to gain power and speed. “You’ll wear yourself out,” says Applegate. Instead gear down, spin fast and enjoy the ride.

Wear bright yellow or orange to be visible to motorists.

Put a visor or cap under your helmet to keep rain out of your eyes.
Keep your frame waxed (liquid furniture polish) and your drive train well lubricated.

Use wide, slightly under-inflated tires to increase contact with the road.
Don’t ride through a puddle if you can avoid it. It’s not uncommon to find a gaping hole under the water.

Cross railroad tracks near the side of the road. It’s less worn there than in the center. Always cross with your wheels perpendicular to the rails, and be extremely careful if they’re wet.

When you’re braking in the rain or anytime your rims are wet, remember that the first few wheel revolutions will only dry the rim and pads, so allow yourself at least 25 percent more stopping distance. Once dry, the brakes may suddenly take hold. Be ready to loosen your grip on the levers as soon as you feel the grab, or you would skid. Ouch.

The key to making it safely through unexpected patches of sand or gravel or a puddle is to stay relaxed. Resist the temptation to jam on the brakes, and give the bike enough freedom to drift in the direction it wants. Or, better yet avoid it.

If forced from the road onto a soft shoulder, react instantly by sliding back on the saddle, reducing your cadence, and maintaining a firm yet sensitive grip on the handlebar. Continue on the shoulder until you find a safe and convenient “on-ramp” back to the pavement.

Reduce your need to brake on descents by sitting up to let your body catch the wind. This can take 5-10 MPH off your speed.

During long descents on wet roads, maintain slight brake pad contact with the rims to keep them free of excess water and allow quicker stopping.

When descending, your bike will be more stable if your are pedaling, not just coasting. Always descend in high gear to retain the ability to accelerate if the situation calls for it.

Don’t ride the brakes on a long descent. Doing so will heat the rims and could cause a tire to blow off. Instead, apply the brakes briefly and firmly to slow your speed, then coast until you want to slow again. This way the rims and brake pads will cool between applications.

To stop front-end shimmy when descending, accelerate or decelerate from the point where it occurs. It also helps to lean forward, putting more weight on the front wheel, and to clamp the top tube between your knees.

When you end your rainy day ride, immediately wipe your bike down with a towel, then lubricate the chain and use a water-dispersing spray, such as WD-40, on all cables, housings, and the pivot points of the brake and gear systems.
Always, bring a change of clothes with you. You need to get out of your cycling clothing as soon as possible. It increases comfort as you cool down, yet allows your mind and body to relax in any environment you chose after a challenging day’s ride.

SHOES:

Don’t dry soaked shoes near a heat source, it may cause them to shrink or become brittle. Instead, remove the insoles and stuff the shoes with crumpled newspaper, changing it after a couple of hours.

BURNING CALORIES:

If you’re interested in losing a few pounds, schedule your rides for midday. Not only will you burn calories, but the exercise will also suppress your appetite, letting you be satisfied with an apple or a cup of low-fat yogurt for lunch.
To estimate the number of calories burned while cycling, use this formula: a 150 pound adult riding at 15 MPH burn 12 calories per a minute. For each 15 pounds above 150, add 1.2 calories per minute. For each 15 pounds under 150, subtract 1.2 calories per minute.

I HOPE THIS INFORMATION WILL MOTIVATE YOU TO RIDE AND TO RIDE OFTEN.